Lace fabric and method of producing same



June 7. 1927.

s. PEPPER LACE-FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed May 15. 1926 June 7, 1927.

s. PEPPE R LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed May 15, 1926 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Juni: 7. 1927.

s. PEPPER more FABRIC AND METHOD OF rnopucme SAME eat 3 4 Sheetsw l .2! in :94:

6 2 9 l y i a M d 8 \1 EA... u 2: li i (i:

June 7 1927.

s. PEPPER LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed May 15, 1926 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 iii . sides are right sides.

Patented June 7, 1927.

UNITED STATES SAM rnrrnaor NOTTINGHAM, ENGLAND.

LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF PRQ DUCING SAME.

Application filedMay 15, 1926, Serial N'o This invention relates to improvements in fabrics adapted for production on twist-lace machines and in the method of producing such fabrics andhas reference to the production of fabrics on twist lace machines utilizing guide bars and pickers or jacks in the manner customary to twist lace machines of the curtain type. i

The invention is concerned primarily with the production of double fronted fabrics on twist lace machines of the said type; Normally fabrics produced on machines of this type have what'is termed a right and a wrong side the right side being the reliefcarrying face or side. It is of course to be understood that there may be no relief, this depending entirely on the natureof the pat-. tern produced but providing there is relief then in fabrics as'usually produced on curtain lace machines the relief will be on the right side. o

By the expression double fronted fabrics is to be understood fabrics in which both That is to say both sides present relief carrying faces. As intimated there may be no relief on either face' depending on the pattern produced or alternatively there may be relief on only one face but both faces are capable of carryin relief.

For further elucidation it may e said that in ordinary lace curtain Work the bobbin threads twist round all, the patterning threads and tie them on to Warp threads which latter threads are necessarily tight in order to hold the fabric. The warp and bobbin threads at the back or foundation of the twists show plainly as ribs on the fabric and these ribs characterize What is known as the wrong side of the fabric. This characteristic is not present in double fronted fabrics produced in accordance with this invention as will be apparent from the detailed description appended hereto.

The principal object of the present invention is the provision of an improved method for producing double-fronted fabrics, whereby a greater variety of effects in such fabrics can be produced than has hitherto been possible and'whereby fabrics of this type can be produced of better quality and pattern and/or more cheaply.

The principal feature of this invention consists in the production of double faced fabrics on twist lace machines by the em- 109,406, and in Great Britain May 12, 1925.

pl oyinent of two guide bars in combination with jacks or pickers but without the use of additional elements for mechanically acting upon the spool or warp threads to move such threads transversely of the machine.

A further feature of this invention con-- sists in the production on twist lace machines of double fronted fabrics with relief carrying faces on both sides inwhich the space occupied by relief work in the front is occupied by corresponding relief work in the back. 1 r

In the present specification the terms a full warp and a full set of spools and like expressions are to be interpreted as meaning the Warp or spool threads necessary to furnish one thread to every carriage i. e'. the same number of warp or spool threads as there are bobbin threads.

Another feature of the present invention consists in the production of double fronted fabrics on twist lace machines of the type set forth by the employment of a full'warp and a full set of spools (hereinafter referred to as the basic threads) one halfof the warps and spools of the basic threads functioning as front threads and the remaining half as back threads, the war s in each half alternating with the spools of the same half and each warp/spool of one halfbeing opposed to a spool/warp of the other halfif threads additional to the basic threads are utilized there being no threads to the front of any of the front threads and no threads to the back of any of the back threads.

It will of course be appreciated that any convenient number of threads additional to the basic threads may be utilized depending upon the nature of the fabric or pattern to be produced; and yet another feature of the invention may be said to reside in this; that none of the threads additional. to the basic threads lie outside (i. e. to the front or back) of said basic threads.

It is to be understood that the expressions front basic threads and back basic threads and similar expressions are utilized merely to differentiate the basic threads so that the relative dispositions of such threads may be more readily understood and more easily defined and further that half of the front, and half the back basic threads may be disposed in one and the same bar. I Another feature of this invention consists operations ot the l.a 'ce-inaking inach in the production of double-faced fabrics embodylng cross-net el'lects wherein one of the threads forming each cross 1s. 01' right twist a id the other thread ot suth cross is idharacter of any such iriachine rnade lace is determined by the pattern mechanism that is einployed; and' which goivern s'the i dlirnanner ot thijeading self, and also hv the thjehgu ide ha r of the ihachine.

My nventlon, when ncorporated into a will be hi eniaftei" delace machine,

. s crihed; i's idapted, by the useoif'pro'per controlling or pattern niechani'sins such are now well known in the art, to pf 'lu'ce lace o fd lferent kinds such as above enumerated, in each and all of which ay he nbhfdietlthe features of novelty to he described.

Ih'ordertl iat the nature of the invention may be more readilyuiiderstood reference will now made to the accompanying 'drawihg's wherei11:-

@Fig; 11 is a part sectional view of a lace machine set up in acfco lance with one me u f carry n ui i fi et igl 2 adapted to illustrate thexnovemerits of the threads through the guide hers "theinterheptions'hy the pickers for the prddu'ct'tjn a'ccort since withthis invern t'iori o f'double fronted fabrics einb odying re- 11erclg tliiiig; v'vickerwork, fi'i'iingnnd the htick and fiQllt combination nipl' liigf3 shows the pattern, orthe result of the onibined nibveinents 0t threhds' and pickers as shown iri'Fig. 2 after the pickets released the threads.

have

s igs. 4 and 5 illustrate a method of producing a first edged scallop "with plaited pillars in moor-dancewith this invention.

vIi 1 the machine isshown with live guide-bars one, delsignated l, at'the back between the lines It and 7c gi iiding the thread a Zjand nnotlfierin the fronthetwe n the linesig and 'Z' and designated 5 guiding the hasic thread cf 5? In the example three intermediate bars are shownin the ini'ddle h'etweenthelilies 71: and Z, but the nui'nbinr of such middle, or intermediate ha rs nu y vary in accorda' ice' with the char- :icter of the inte f diate o'r secondary effects incorporatedwith the invention.

I 'lhebasie threads are passed through the bars in the manner that zfispohl thread a. running from a SpIQOl lQOQ I'Cl" n is threaded through thejhack hair land a warp thread 6 running from a full warp beam m is threaded directly opposite to it in the front bar 5, the next guide in the back bar is threaded with a warp thread 7) and the opposite guide in the front bar with a spool thread a and so on, threads 6 a being op ,posedto threads a b throughout the length of the machine. r I V V The threads-a Z) tie, that is pass under and over the bobbin threads, through the action of the bac-kguide-bar unless pickers j are inserted to prevent the tie. Thus the pickersinay hesaitl to influence the threads backi bar negatively. The (Z Win the front guide-hardo not tie unless pickers are inserted to holdthein until the bobhi'n thread changed lfr'oin hack to front, or vic'e 've'rs'a. "lh'e pickerstherefore influence the threadsin the front barpo'sit ively. TWhere a thread a is required to tie, a picker is drawn back to the line hg' aifoddiih'lnber'd picker it'the carriages are at the hack, an even-numbered picker if V the" car riages are in front. t Nherea thread 5 is required to tie, aneven niiinbered picker is drawn'hackth hit the earriag'es are at the an"odd-nuinhered' picker if the car l'lages are in front. g Where a thread'd is required toftie, an"even imnibered"picker is inserted to the line if the Lear iages are at the ba clr, while an odd-numbered picker is inserted to the line 9 if the carriages are in front. /Vhere athread b i's 'i-e'quir'etl to tie, an odd-numberedpicker is inserted to" the where thebasic threads are alternatii 'ely dispo s ed, half in the extreme b cl; and half in tl'ieextreine"frontbar, and *i' egardlessly of what the ntunber of iiiterinedi are ears in the Asbdd nuinhered pickers theiirst picker in the niachine, the third, fifth and so "on, are understeod, as even numbered the secout; i urth, aiid'so on. i l

ing directions are given under lhe loreg, the un pt on! that a ti'uea'da" in the first guide'ot the hack bar; it the first guide in the niachin'e is started with a warp thread 7) thefdir ections regardihg oddaud even pickers would have to be transposed.

In the example given in Fig. 1 with three inilddleg or intern'iediate bars, the .uiiddl'e bar Of all is full-threaded with right twisted spool threads 6 running from a spool board 3) and the two remaining iiiterinediateburs are each full-threaded with reverse twisted threads 0 (Z running froiii a" double warp beam 0 (that is to say, a warp beam with two'threads to every carriage in the machine).

It will be understood, as has already been suggested, that a curtain lace machine to which my invention is applied may be threaded differently from what is illustrated in Fig. '1, accordingly as one or another eifect in the lace being made is desired. For instance one or more intermediate barsthat is the thread bars between those designated 1 and 5-may remain untl'ireaded and the proper shogging and pattern mechanism employed in order to produce the particular form of lace fabric desired. It is deemed unnecessary to herein describe all the arrangements of threading the bars and all of the movements which may be given to them to secure the desired effects in lace production. I shall therefore only set forth the movements required in producing a fabric such as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3, it

being understood that the machine is threaded as indicated in Fig. 1.

In order to produce multiple wickering in combination with p-laited pillars in which four threads wicker in every wale (i. e. the distance between adjacent pillars) five fully threaded bars are employed of which bars Nos. 1, 3 and 5 carry right yarns and bars 2 and 4 carry reverse twisted yarns. In this case the basic threads will be located in the two bars 1 and 5. One double lift jacquard in double action or two single lift jacquards in double action'is/are employed in the determined sequence as follows:

By the abovemethod torchons, scollops and other hand-made lace effects are enabled to be produced by vlrtue of the multiple wickering in combination with the plaited pillars and firm nip whilst additionally all the effects enumerated with reference to the above described arrangements can also be obtained.

For the purpose of heightening the relief work and distinctiveness of each face in fabrics produced according to the last mentioned method the intermediate bars 2, 3 and i or certain of these bars are caused to fall an' additional gait so that clothing is made behind the/spool weaving in the front and in front of the spool weaving at the back. By this means an approximation to an independent fabric between two faces is obtained. According to the thickness of the intermediate clothing desired one, two, or all of the bars may be employed and where any baris not-required to make clothing between the relief surfaces a stop sciew may be provided for preventing such bar'from failing the additionalgait. I

Referring now to the drawings which as stated illustrate only one en'ibodime'nt of the invention it will be seen from Figure 1 that the bars are threaded as described with reference to the table hereinbe-l'ore appearing.

The movements of thebars are as given in this table and the following description particularlywith reference to Figures 2 and 3 will render clear the'manner in which double frontedfabrics with various effects are pro duced in accordance with this invention.

In Fig. 2 the sections B, B B etc., show the movements of the threads and the insertions of pickers on back motions, that is to say, when the carriages with the bobbin threads 7 are at the back; the sections F, F F etc., show the movements of the threads and the insertions of pickers on front motions, that is to say, when the carriages with the bobbin threads 7 are in front. The discs y represent the pickers; odd-numbered pickers are characterized by a dot, even-num-.

bered pickers are shown blank. A full disc denotes that the picker has advanced tothe line 9 and influences a thread a or b positively; where a picker has advanced to the line K and intercepts a thread a, or 7), only, the threads a or b show in front of the disc. At those places in the sections where no picker is shown, this has been withdrawn to the line it. I

In the section F an odd-numbered picker inserted to g by the bobbin thread 'f causes a thread a to tie with this bobbin thread, in B an even-numbered picker inserted to 9 causes the same thread a to tie with the bobbin thread F. This thread a floats in front of all the other threads and, in natural size, covers them, thereby giving a relief effect to the work seen from-the front. In section F by the bobbin thread f a picker is drawn back to it so that a thread a ties with the bobbin thread F, in section B a picker is drawn back to h by, or at, the

bobbin thread 7 so that the same thread a ties with the bobbin thread 1. This thread a floats behind all the other threads, which,

innatural size, gives a-relief effect to the work seen from the back.

In B, 13 ,13 by f and 7 oddannnberet pickers advanced to 9 cause threads 6 to tie with the bobbin threads f 'and f by f the ed fabrics on twist lace machines, which consists in dividing the basic threads employed into a front group and aback group,through which the bobbin threads are carried and with which they twist, and shifting the spool threads of one group of basic threads to cause relief to be produced on one face or the fabric, and shifting the spool threads of the other group of basic threads to produce a design on the other face of the fabric.

3. The method of producing double fronted fabrics on twist lace machines, which consists in dividing the basic threads, composed of warp threads and spool threads, into two groups, a front group and a back group, through which the bobbin threads are carried and with which they twist, and shifting the spool threads of both said groups to produce identical designs on correspondingly opposite faces of the fabric, the design on one face being formed by the spool threads of one group and the design on the other face by the spool threads of the other group.

4:. The method of producing double fronted fabrics on twist lace machines, which consists in providing a full warp and a full set of spool threads, these being arranged into two groups, one half the warp and spool threads to function as front threads and the remaining half to function as back threads, and arranging the same so that the warp threads in each group alternate with the spool threads in the same group, and each warp thread of one group is opposed to a spool thread of the other group, shifting the spool threads of each group to produce a design on one face only of the fabric, and

tying the warp and spool threads by means of bobbin threads which are passed back and forth'through the two groups of warp and spool threads. I

5. The method described in the last pre ceding claim, including as an additional step the introduction of additional threads, which tie with the bobbin threads, intermediate the aforesaid front and back threads.

6. The method ofproducing double fronted fabrics on twist lace machines which consists in dividing'the basic threads employed into a front group and aback group through which the bobbin threads are moved and with which they twist, and'arrangingintermediate warp and spool threads between the said groups of basic threads, certain of said intermediate threads being reversely twisted and others right twisted, said reverse twisted and right twisted threads being positioned intermediate each other in the direction in which the bobbin threads are moved, and arranged whereby an intermediate right twisted thread operates to draw a bobbin thread over the reverse twisted thread that is opposite thereto on those motions where the reverse twisted threads are laid with the bobbin threads thereunder, and wherein a right twisted thread behind a reverse twisted thread draws the bobbin thread under the reverse twisted thread opposite thereto on those motions where'the reverse twisted thread is laid with the bobbin thread thereover.

SAM PEPPER. 

